Please remember shipping is calculated by weight, Compound bars are VERY heavy so shipping to International areas can be Expensive. Unfortunately we have no control over these costs. Note: all shippers across the board have raised their prices in 2017 so our new shipping prices reflect that increase.
We typically ship within 1-3 days when items are in stock. The actual Shipping time for most orders is 3-5 business days but can take 10-20 Business days depending on location. Overseas orders may take slightly longer.
Also I'm primarily a Polisher, I run a Polishing Business FULL TIME on a daily basis, that is my primary focus. This website was built to accommodate everyone that wants to use the products I use and follow my process. With that said. I don't carry a HUGE inventory so on occasion certain items likes grinders and such need to be ordered before being able to ship them. So Please bare in mind that the time for delivery might be a little longer then expected.
Items Rarely go back order but it does happen, when this does happen I ship your order the day the items come in.
There is a few ways to find out if your rims are coated, number one just by the look you can tell there's a plastic coating most of the time, number 2 Durabrights (Alcoa) or Accusheild (Accuride) have black stickers... non-Durabrights have blue stickers
and the last way if your still not sure is grab some metal polish with a rag, rub a spot if it turns black there's no coating.
Yes I do it all the time! For the back rims only do the outer part of the rim unless you can fit your machine inside on certain trucks if they have 24.5's and the hub isn't sticking out too much you can fit the machine in.
here's a Youtube Video i posted a few years ago, I still use this same process when I can't remove the rims
Clean your rim of all dirt and road debris, if you have grease and or tar using mineral spirits and an SOS pad works wonders. (personally I don`t use acid, but on certain occasions when rims are very badly oxidized using acid can make the process easier.)
Prepping and sanding aluminum is the secret to a deep clear shine. I use 180, 320, 400 and 600grit aluminum oxide sand paper. Always remember that your first grit is the bulk of your work. so whether you start with 180 grit when rims are bad or 320 when rims are average that first grit will take most of your sanding time.
If you're dealing with durabright/accushield rims. The coating needs to be removed before you sand or polish. Use these high strength discs to remove the coating, no chemical mess and takes much less time to get the job done.
This step In my opinion is the secret, the most important of all the steps.
The Depthness of the shine you will have will be in direct proportion to the sanding you do. So with that said… depending on how far, how much work and time you want to spend on sanding will determine how close to a perfect mirror your surface will become.
Choosing the grits: 95% of my jobs are done with 320 followed by 400 and finishing with 600. Some jobs will require a bit more work and time, Older and much more pitted surfaces will need to be sanded with 120-180 grit first, I very rarely go lower then 180 on aluminum it will just create more unwanted work and loss of time to get all the marks done by the harsher grit. So 180, followed by 320, 400 and finished with 600 grit ready for the polishing step. I use a 5 inch sander but use 6 inch paper for a reason it's so when I do corners and stuff the paper folds up around the sander so I can get the edges easier with no scratching from the sander.
Again that's a loaded question, Yes but with the right technique. I normally use my high strength buffing discs for prep if the diamond plate is bad. then I'll sand with 400 grit holding my sander in an angle not to remove the diamonds. then 2-3 step polish.
If it's indeed aluminum my kit will most definitely do the job. You will need to sand first 320, 400 and 600. Followed by a 2-3 step polishing process
Fastcut pad and 439t green compound from Menzerna. And finishing with a white untreated pad with 480blf blue from Menzerna. The your final step is clean and protection by hand with pro-40. All these products and required mounting come with my kit. As for a machine if you have no experience I recommend using an 849x 3500 rpm polisher by dewalt. To get the job done faster and if you have some grinder experience what I use on a daily basis is a 6000 rpm grinder from either Bosch or Dewalt.
It depends one what kind of truck you're working on and how bad the aluminum is. A Peterbilt that hasn't been done in a few years for example has 1 Grill, 2 tanks, 2 boxes and air tanks, 6 rims so with some sanding you can easily do your truck with one kit and maybe enough to touch it up a few months later when it starts to oxidize. On the other hand if you're working on an Internatrional it has only 2 tanks and 6 rims to polish so you could potentially get 3-4 trucks done. Remember with Menzerna a little product goes a long way.
There's basically 3 major reasons why you're leaving lines, first could be the products/pads you're using, Second experience and third the speed your buffing at. With that said you need to remember that on big surfaces, you'll never get 100% of the lines/marks out you'll drive yourself insane if you try. Also for some reason often on larger jobs the aluminum they use is made of different "blends" so one panel might be one grade and the other the mix will be a bit different and you'll get a difference end result VERY frustrating but it's all part of the Job. So make sure you're using a white untreated or flannel wheel with 480blf Blue from Menzerna for your finishing compound. 3000 rpm polishers will always leave more lines then using a 6000 rpm grinder. Here are some other reasons for getting lines when polishing, Could also be that you went too fast meaning, each stroke you moved your buffer up too much leaving sander marks behind. Also could be that your making too many side to side passed before putting more compound on, remember less product and more often gives a more even shine. So that's a few things to look at and see what you need to do differently.
In Short, Yes! but the sanding is a bit different. Stainless is a much harder metal so A LOT more sanding is required. often i'll use my 3000 rpm DWP849X polisher for my first and second step, 180 and 320 then i'll switch to my DA do another run with 320, 400, 600 and then polish. Polishing is basically the same just takes longer to cut so take your time. Some guys like doing several "faster" cutting steps which also works.
There are many company's that will hate me for saying this, but there is absolutely no reason for 5-8 buffing/polishing steps. it's a massive waste of time, product and money. If you prep your surface properly by doing 2-4 sanding steps you won't only save time in your buffing/polishing stages but you will achieve a better clearer shine. If you're polishing at 3000-3500 rpm's sometimes 2 cutting steps are required for those with less experience. At 6000 rpm 1 cutting step and 1 finishing step. Keep it simple you will get above average results!!!
This is another question that depends greatly on experience and how well you follow my instructions. The 439T Green bar will out last 99% if not all of the competitions bars. with Menzerna Little means more, Applying very little more often will not only give you a more even clear deep shine but also make your compound last longer. I can easily do 5+ trucks with one Green bar. Same goes for the 480blf Blue bar, very little is needed. I can do 30+ trucks with ONE bar.
2 steps: 1 Cutting and 1 Finishing. (if using a 3000 rpm polisher 2 cutting steps might be required)
Explaining this is very hard, it’s like reading about how to drive… you can’t really know until you do it yourself. The best tips I can give are first always polish in the direction of the grain of the aluminum. Second always start from the bottom and work your way up chasing that black product residue line, going side to side in a slow and even motion. I use 15 amp 6000 rpm Dewalt grinders they weight a little over 13 pounds so there’s no need for a lot of pressure, I’d say 5-10 lbs of pressure using less and less as you get to the top of the tank. Once the machine work is done. you want to use a liquid metal polish I use pro-40 and white diamond those are the 2 that I’ve found give the best finish and shine. always use cotton flannel sheets on tanks and flat surfaces any other surface plain cotton rags will work. again always work in the direction of the grain with an up and down motion, a good amount of pressure using a flat hand removing some of the fine scratches and marks left by the polishing process. If you drop your rag on the floor toss it and use a new one dirt is your biggest enemy when doing the final finish.
Sometimes if you don't do your cutting step properly (leaving sander marks) it'll leave some black behind... or if there's pits in the aluminum or in welds same thing will happen. Just clean it up with some liquid metal polish mixed with some Varsol/Mineral Spirits about 75/25 mix, it should fix it up.
As for using the rake in the cutting step honesty it doesn't matter much I just use the rake when the pad gets caked up you can tell buy the edge getting hard. In the finishing step is where the rake plays a key role in minimizing the buffing lines you will leave behind so every 2-4 passes use the rake. For the amount of compound to use always remember with Menzerna a little goes a long way I touch the bar for about a second or less and do 2-4 passes I usually work with 18-24 inch wide area.
To be honest it all depends on how you maintain it after it's polished. If you do nothing it'll last a few months. Washing it every week or everytime it goes out will make a massive difference. Using some metal polish by hand every 1-2 months will keep the shine up also. Now this is more for trucks that take a bit more of abuse. If you're truck or trailer sits a lot it will last longer, and less maintenance will be needed.
I sell hundreds of kits a year to people that have never polished before, the only question I ask is, are you handy with power tools... Grinders mainly! If you are use/get a 6000 rpm grinder like me, if not try using a 3500 849X Dewalt to start. The 6000 can be humbling for beginners. Aside from that you follow the steps, with my kit you will get great results.
Pricing is a little tricky because it depends on a few things.
First where you live can have an impact on what you should be charging.
If there's competition around find out what they are charging. Start from there, if you're new at the business and you work isn't perfect yet you can charge a little less then the competition. Once your work is where you want it to be, you can charge the same or more as the competition. Hope that makes senses. if you don't have or know any polishers around you can use my prices as a guide line (note: I'm from Canada)
there's always jobs out there that are different or hard to price in those cases I charge per hour. At that point it's basically, what is your time worth? And go from there. I charge min $75 an hour if I work alone if my employees are with me it's $125+